So, the upshot of this is that I eventually worked out the following:
- GSConnect is still using Gtk 3.0, for Reasons™.
- The dark-mode setting in GNOME Control Center has no effect whatsoever on Gtk 3.0 applications. (Any of them.)
- A quick-and-dirty workaround for this issue is to use the GNOME Tweaks utility to set the Legacy Applications theme to “Adwaita-dark”, instead of the default “Adwaita”. That’ll dark-mode all Gtk3 applications.
Why this is suddenly necessary in Fedora 38, when it wasn’t in Fedora 37, I couldn’t begin to speculate.